A to Z of Adventure Travel: H is for Havana

6 03 2009



Many people think of Cuba as nothing more than a land of beaches, all-you-can-eat buffets and swim-up bars…however, Cuba is also one of the most interesting and rewarding destinations in the Americas and Havana one of the greatest cities in the world.


Established more than 400 years ago by King Philip II of Spain and officially dubbed the “Key to the New World and Rampart of the West Indies,” Havana is every bit as important today culturally as it was then politically. Whether spending just a day as part of a beach holiday or longer while exploring the entire country, the Cuban capital is guaranteed to captivate and ensure that you wish you’d devoted more time. Havana is a city of diverse ideologies and eras.


The colonial core is grand and ornate with fortresses, cathedrals, parks and balconied buildings often tantalising with faded glory. Along the Malecón seawall, glorious old houses face the ocean across a wide avenue buzzing with couples on evening strolls, teenagers diving dangerously into the heaving surf or fishermen hauling in their catches. The houses are a patchwork of restoration and dilapidation as the government use tourist money to attempt to return them to their former beauty. While some hearken pristinely to the days of gas lamps and ball gowns, their neighbours are open to the elements and laundry can be spied hanging from bare ceiling beams beneath hurricane-damaged roofs.


In the Plaza de la Revolucion, the iconic outline of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara stares down from the Ministry of the Interior building onto the famous square in which millions of Cubans have gathered to hear the speeches of Fidel Castro or to greet the nation’s heroes. The image is one of the most recognisable in the world and one of the most photographed spots in the country, but visitors are warned not to cross the road for a closer look as the Ministry guards outside the antenna-bristling edifice are reputedly fond of shooting first and stamping postcards afterwards!havana-4mw1


For those with a literary interest, there’s El Floridita: a cozy bar which was amongst Ernest Hemingway’s favourite haunts. Propping up the bar in the corner is a life-size statue of the scribe so real that you can imagine tourists who’ve indulged in too many of the establishment’s legendary daiquiris spending hours in one-way conversations with Papa.


Although Hemingway may be long gone, Havana’s traffic has changed little since he was its most famous resident even if the city’s famously photogenic cars are more likely to be powered by Lada engines than the original power-plants that rolled off the production lines of Detroit 50 years ago.


For all the tourist attractions in Havana however, perhaps the most attractive and addictive pastime for a traveller is to simply wander away from the hubbub of tour groups and motor-coaches and explore the city’s narrow side streets. Grab a bite to eat in a small café or from a street vendor, sit and people watch, or drink in the varied architecture, mismatched colours and historic freezes. Stroll through the markets either for souvenirs or memories or relax in one of the parks and enjoy the weather.


Eventually, the Havana of today will disappear and a living time capsule will be lost. The spray-painted revolutionary slogans and party graffiti will likely disappear. Neglected buildings will either fall down, or be restored to opulent splendour. The antique cars will be replaced with new imports and the quirky stores will be replaced by international outlets.  This may not happen this year or this decade, but Havana needs to be visited today while its character remains as strong as its culture and its history as alive as the Malecón on a Saturday night.



Photo and post by: Simon Vaughan

Travel Words of Wisdom – No. 75

24 09 2008

“Are you sure we’re going the right way? And what does ‘anthropomorphise’ mean any way?”    (Antarctic)

“Never go on trips with anyone you do not love.”  
 – Ernest Hemingway


Photo and post:  Simon Vaughan